Un dia en Todos Santos Baja California Sur

A pasado un poco- mucho tiempo que no escribo sobre los vinos que he tenido oportunidad de beber y degustar  en compañía de mi familia y amigos, esto por diferentes razones como tiempo o trabajo,  así pues dejé de  estar en  comunicación, pero esto  no significa que dejé la práctica de la apreciación  y  degustación de los vinos  a un lado por el contrario son ciclos que hay que cumplir.

El día de ayer tuve la oportunidad de acudir a la Clausura del  evento de El Festival de música Todos Santos fue organizado por Peter Buck de REM, para lo cual llegamos a la hora de la comida, aterrizamos en Hotel Guaycura que acaba de renovar sus Menús, razón por demás interesante para probar las nuevas opciones gastronómicas de este prestigiado Hotel Boutique  que, por cierto  en ese momento se encontraba al 100%, hospedando a los  participantes de este muy buen evento.

Para el efecto nos  hicimos acompañar con un par de botellas de Vin Rouge du Rhone LA VIEILLE FERME,Récolte 2013,  que desde hace más de veinte años. Es reconocido como una de las mejores marcas relación precio-calidad que existe en el mundo! 

El ensamblaje es realizado con Syrah, Cinsault , Grenache y Carignan, en diferentes porcentajes, procedentes   de viñas de 25 a 40 años , me encontré con un vino nuevo(ya había tenido la oportunidad de probar otras añadas del 2005 y 2006) . de color morado  obscuro , y el aroma es profundo, la especia continúa en primer gusto , de forma  sutil, Vino suave y rico, con notas de bayas maduras y un poco  punzante, Encontré una  acidez que persiste en la lengua que con el tiempo te deja con ganas de un poco más, con un factor de que  Es un vino bien joven  y que es fácil de beber, 

   En conclusión:

Vista: De color morado oscuro con bordes luminosos,  Nariz: ciruela, cereza, tierra húmeda,  cuerpo medio a completo, Sabores a Ciruelo y notas terrosas  que vienen a través de un  fuerte acabado pero bien terminado gusto tánico en seco  donde las notas terrosas persisten.

 Para lo cual acompañamos unas Tapas de camarones envueltos con tocino y unos Focaccia que prendieron nuestros paladares, continuamos con un pollo, pulpo y pescado presentados alegremente en diferentes modalidades  y estilos.

 

Despues A disfrutar  de las diferentes bandas de rock..........

Un poco mas tarde acudimos al Café Todos Santos propiedad del chef Angelo Dal Bon y su compañera Magda Piovesan, a quienes agradezco la oportunidad que me otorgaron  para poder probar y comentar con el , los mas nuevos de sus vinos, en esta ocasión tuve una grata experiencia  y felizmente  sorprendido con estas elaboraciones bien llevadas y concluidas con una acidez palpable pero excelentemente balanceada  dejando a las frutas de cada varietal el exponerse a cuerpo abierto, fueron tres vinos blancos, me comento Angelo que las cepas fueron plantadas en el Valle de Guadalupe y que esta producción que no supera las 40 cajas, y estas  son el resultado de una  cosecha esperada con mucha paciencia , por lo que a continuación expongo las sensaciones recibidas por estos recomendables y muy bien logrados vinos, los cuales recomiendo como imperdibles si acuden al pueblo mágico de Todos Santos  ya que pocos bebedores podrán saborearlos por lo corto de su producción pero que bien vale la pena un viaje y degustarlos en su Restaurante Las Tres Gallinas.

El primer vino elaborado con el varietal Falanghina, Excelente para ser  degustado  como aperitivo, que va bien con los platos tradicionales de la cocina mediterránea: aperitivos, arroz y pasta con marisco, mariscos, salsas delicadas, sopas de verduras, sopa de setas, pescado frito y a la parrilla, carnes blancas, quesos blandos, mozzarella de búfala y pizzas variadas sin olvidar que va muy bien con diversidad  de verduras.

Vino blanco de color amarillo pajizo con reflejos verdosos; en  nariz se abre en una rica gama aromática de delicado perfume floral y afrutado intenso y persistente, con notas de flores,  plátano, manzana verde, pera, almendra y albahaca; el sabor es seco, fresco, armonioso, suave, con buena acidez; el retrogusto amargo, amplio y agradable, recuerda la granada, un blanco de buena personalidad se aprecia al igual que sus demás hermanos que,  Todas las operaciones de vinificación y embotellado, fueron logradas  adecuadamente la temperatura de servicio debió estar  entre 8 y 10 grados es un excelente vino.

 El Segundo Vino blanco Malvasia Bianca , es la variedad mediterránea más antigua de la que se tienen noticias. El crecimiento en el Valle de Guadalupe refleja un  vino  que es seco y aterciopelado. Es adecuado para acompañar platos a base de pescado y aperitivos. Considero su Servicio a una temperatura de 10 ° / 12 °. De color amarillo con toques de oro, su paladar nos recuerda los aromas de almendras, enebro y de las flores blancas. En el paladar su sabor es calido, fragante, suave y seco.

Grigio Perla vino que  se distingue por su fragancia floral y ofrece delicados sabores cítricos, cremoso y especiado, y de acuerdo a  la madurez de la uva y la técnica de vinificación, se  puede decir que es de gran cuerpo y  seco. En esta  región expresa la personalidad del terroir y ofrece características únicas que se aprecian en la copa.

Es un blanco versátil, de aromas sutiles, que recuerda a manzanas verdes, cítricos y flores blancas, con buen balance entre acidez y azúcar que lo transforman en el ideal complemento de la gastronomía va de maravilla con un plato de rabas o  mariscos. De aromas florales y cítricos y con una acidez vibrante en boca es un vino ideal para servir como aperitivo o acompañar frutos de mar.

Si la opción es un vino fresco, delicado y diferente, sin dudas el Grigio-Perla es una alternativa que vale la pena probar.

  

Excelente Día regresamos mas tarde con los buenos sabores de esta grata experiencia, eso fue todo hasta la próxima cita. A Votre Sante, Cin,Cin, Chers, Salute, Salud!!!!

Antonio Palacios

Butler –Sommelier

25 de Enero 2015.

Italy and its wines

The origin of Italian wine is lost in legend and mythology. Much is known of old wines by the works of the classics as Pliny, which lists 195 kinds in most of Italy, and considered to the "falerno" of the Campania, as the most extraordinary of all. Horacio describes it as robust, ardent and generous. In the North of Italy is the Rhaetian, which according to Virgilio was the second best wine after the Falerno. César to celebrate his third Consulate, offers the Mamertino Sicilian, which was very popular at that time. Thus we can follow multiple allusions that confirm the ancient origin of the Italian wine industry and whose roots are the time of the splendor of Greece.

Italy belongs to the Group of large producers of wines in the world, and it has been said that Italy is a great vineyard, from the Alps to Sicily almost is not interrupted its cultivation, however for different climates and soils are very varied styles. The international prestige of Italian wines has been consolidated as a result of quality control imposed by the authorities. There are three designations of origin:

Simplice: Refers to wines made in accordance with the respective local uses and with traditional grapes in production areas.

Controllata: Is reserved to the wines that meet the requirements set by the regulations in the areas of production and breeding.

Controllata e Garantita: is for the best wines, whose standards specify the particular and fine qualities. Wine is identified by the expression on the labels of their source data, entitled with an official stamp numbered and attached to the container that prevents the removal of your content unless it is broken.

Best known for its wine regions are Lazio, Piedmont, Trentino and Venice and Tuscany.

Piedmont: Region in the North of Italy, produces wine with a gradation between 12 and 13 ° G.L., with the exception of the Moscazo d'Asti that has 10.5 to 11.5 ° G.L.

The wines that are produced in the region the most known are:

The most famous red wines of Piedmont, is Barolo: Deep color, fragrance and great palate, made from the Nebbiolo variety, in the provinces of Barolo and Monforte d'Alba and Serralunga d'Alba, Catiglione. With four years of aging, it is classified as "Riserva"; After five, it acquires the 'Riserva Speciale' category

Barbera: The regions of Asti, Cuneo and Alessandria, produce this wine velvety and pleasant taste, coming from grapes barbera from which it takes its name. After three years of aging is given the "Superiore" qualification.

Barbaresco: Is a wine with orange tones and delicate bouquet. It occurs in regions of Neive and Barbaresco, Nebbiolo grape, which gives it a resemblance to Barolo but it is lighter. Aged three years is "Riserva" and four "Riserva Speciale".

Nebbiolo: The used strain gives its name to this wine that is dark red and reminds to the Barolo and Barbaresco by their origin. The towns which produces are: Alba, Montaldo di Mondovì, Cornegliano d'Alba, Santa Vittoria d'Alba, and Sommariva Perno

Moscato D'Asti: There are two varieties, Moscato Naturale d'Asti and Moscato D'Asti Spumante, both with world renowned. They are pale golden colour, delicately sweet and flavor of moscatel, whose variety is developed, Asti, Cuneo and Alessandria.

Trentino and Venice: located to the northeast , produces wines of alcohol 10.5 ° to 13 °, famous for its aroma, and are advised to consume them there himself.

Teroldego: Vineyard situated on the edge of the South Tyrol, Bolzano and Trento, aged two years in cask. It is Ruby colour with aroma of raspberry and violet.

Santa Maddalena: Occurs in the Bolzano region, at the foot of the Dolomites. It is a solid wine, fruit flavored.

Valpolicella: This wine involves at least five types of strains, it is docile, garter belt and fruity conservation does not exceed five years

Bianco dei Colli Euganei: it is customary to eat it young, is light, fresh, with a strong yellow color and fruit flavor. Made with 10 different varieties.

Prosecco: It takes its name from the variety that is produced. It is a sweet wine with a hint of bitter, rich aroma and golden colour is used as an aperitif.

Picolit: It came deep aroma and yellow gold.

Soave: Appreciated since ancient times. It takes its name from one of the five municipalities, near Verona, where it is produced. It is light green with Golden hues, freshness, acidity and taste of almond. A very rich wine.

Tuscany: Land of the famous "Chianti" which corresponds to a small region between the provinces of Florence and Siena, but as a name extends to the vineyards of Pisa, Pistoia and Arezzo.The special shape of the Chianti bottle called "fiasco" protected with straw cover make it unmistakable, the same attributes that distinguish it are the main factors that elevated this wine at a high level of international popularity. It is a well-balanced wine, with body, fine bouquet and a minimum of 11.5% alcohol G.L. gets Sangioveto, Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano varieties. In addition to the Chianti area, there are other two wines the Nobile di Montepulciano with 12 ° occurring near Siena. Rich in tannins, astringent, you need two years of ageing before gaining firmness, is slightly bitter. And the Mortecarlo also of 12° is produced in vineyards near Luca. It is quite light, well formed and Garnet color.

The production of white wines is just as important in this region include the Valchiana, fresh, pleasant wine, dry and delicately aromatic, comes from the trebbiano strain and graduation is 11 °. Procanino or Bianco dell' Elba, this pale wine, full-bodied, generous is used mainly with fish and seafood, the strains used are procanico and biancone.

Lazio: Ancient wine-producing region, around Rome, producer of white wines, with a reputation that tourists visiting Rome not denies. The wines of Lazio are known by the generic name of Castelli Romani (Roman castles) and include the following:

Frascati: Produced vines with malvasia and trebbiano. Is golden, dry, it has body and a minimum of 7.1 ° G.L.

EST, Est, Est: White wine with yellowish hues with 11° G.L. occurs in Montefiascone, trebbiano grapes, toscabo and malvasia bianca. The Bishop Fugger, a cleric connoisseur was named to that in the year 1111 and the wine lover asked one of his servants was preparing him accommodation in the successive stages of his upcoming trip to Rome. So Monsignor lost no time in useless stops, it was agreed the advance to write about the door of the visited wineries: est or non est, according to which came to deserve or not that he stop. When the servant came to Montefiascone recommendation seemed poor to excellent quality of wine that there proved, and so your employer won't let try this wonderful nectar, wrote Est, Est, Est. They say that the Bishop never came to Rome, was to live and drink until his death.

A little background on .... wine

To really understand the wine we have to know its history, which is full of anecdotes and unexpected situations. Since the preparation of Champagne by mistake, to the production of great wines of the world in a special way to transport cause great wines of the world as sherries or ports, or even the most important fact in the history of wine that was the appearance phylloxera and change the concept of wine. Here we put a few small words by way of introduction.

Some historians suppose that the man knew the wine before I knew growing grapes; possibly since the Genus Vitis, comprising all domestic vines, made its appearance in the Tertiary era, period of the first mammals. The vine was then a wild plant, from which sprouted a small and sour berries that were collected as other plant species and consumed directly.

But the vitis vinifera, which alone produces quality wines, appears much later in the Caucasus and the Middle East. From Israel, Mesopotamia and Egypt, the vinifera vine was spreading throughout the Mediterranean, promoting the development of wine culture. Much later Spanish, Portuguese, French and Italian move this legacy to America and South Africa. The English take Australia and New Zealand and spreading throughout the world.

In ancient Egypt wine ranks first in the trade of that time. The Egyptians gathered the grapes from vines planted in the gardens of the Nile River in rush baskets pressing, which were trodden by the feet of slaves and once fermentation was transferred into jars or jars of different sizes, sometimes very large, for consumption or transport ships. At the time of the Greek vineyard did not receive great attention, but the mild climate gave lots of fruit. The resulting wine never drank pure, was mixed liberally with water, honey, thyme, myrrh, sea water etc. To transport the Greeks used leather skins, while for large storage jars were used.

Later the Etruscans consumed natural wine without added water, although the Romans later return to work it in the Greek manner, adding water infusions, herbal honey and other sweeteners.

It was the Romans who took over for the expansion of wine. Thanks to his military successes, and the realization of numerous commercial companies, consolidated two of the jewels of the Mediterranean agriculture - wine and oil - expanding their growing areas to the periphery of the empire. By this time begin to dictate rules for the election of more suitable varieties, soil properties and climate observations.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, religious orders - especially the Benedictines and Cistercians later - recover wine culture. With the spread of the faith, the new apostles not forget to extend the wine trade, planting new vineyards, making progress processing techniques and upbringing. In the Middle Ages, feudal lords cultivate their lands for them wine that allowed them to show hospitality to the range of the castle had an obligation to try. Also the literary and religious recommendations of the time had their land devoted to wine.

The Middle Ages left their mark on the most artisan work and patients of the vineyard and the winery. Some of these practices and arts have remained almost unchanged until the mid-twentieth century.

For centuries the Vitis vinifera was the only species of vines cultivated in Europe. With the discovery of the New World also appear new species of vitis, for making wine since the mid-nineteenth century began to be imported strains and different species from the United States. The entry of American vineyards on the international stage was as serious and unexpected. Coming from beyond the Atlantic, fungal diseases caused by dangerous unknown parasites in Europe, severely beat the very sensitive to such insects in waves European vineyards: first powdery mildew, then mildew but above phylloxera was introduced in Europe in the last third of the century and devastated all European vineyards, even went beyond, as also Australia suffered their attacks. This plague, in addition to the immediate economic consequences, led to the disappearance of numerous vineyards not return to planting.